Preparing lemongrass was one of the first chores Nite Yun , chef and owner of Oakland’s critically acclaimed Nyum Bai , performed in her mother’s kitchen. Though Yun estimates that lemongrass is found in 95% of Cambodian cooking, give or take, the celebrated aromatic is nonetheless something of an ornery character.
Releasing the fragrant, lightly floral oils from its woody stalk and bulb requires everything from peeling and chopping to smashing and pounding. Sure, it’s work, but don’t be intimidated. If Yun could master lemongrass back in elementary school, you’ll do just fine.
As its name suggests, lemongrass is a grass with botanical origins that stretch across South and Southeast Asia, from India and Sri Lanka to Indonesia and the Philippines. Also called Malabar grass, Cochin grass, or fever grass, among many other names, lemongrass ( Cymbopogon citratus ) grows in large bushy clumps. Its stalks are woody and pale green with bulbous lighter-colored bases that are somewhat reminiscent of green onions. Used whole, chopped, or pummeled into a paste, lemongrass adds a light but complex flavor and aroma—simultaneously lemony (hence the name), gingery, and floral—to sauces, soups, and meats.
To make this sauce , hot oil is poured over finely chopped lemongrass, ginger, and scallions.
Photographs by Laura Murray, food styling by Rose Daniels and Yia VangIn some parts of the world, lemongrass is also treasured for its health benefits. When brewed into a tea, the plant is considered an immunity-boosting treatment for a wide variety of ailments including gastrointestinal distress, fever, and asthma.
Lemongrass comes in a few different forms, including dried and frozen, but, as with most aromatics, the fresh stalks are the most potent and versatile. “I always prefer fresh lemongrass as the natural oils bring so much flavor and complexity to dishes,” says Gil Payumo , chef at Filipino fusion restaurant Señor Sisig in San Francisco. Fresh lemongrass can be easily found at Asian grocery stores, and some less specialized markets have started to carry it in recent years—I can get lemongrass at my local farmers market.
Dried lemongrass, sold as whole sections of the stalk, sliced pieces, or powder, can be found in the spice or herb section at Asian groceries and many larger markets, as well as online . You can also buy the stalks and bulbs frozen.
In South and Southeast Asian cooking, lemongrass commonly conspires with ingredients like garlic, galangal (and/or ginger), cilantro, Thai basil, shallots, lime leaves, and coconut milk to create bold, complex flavors.
To prepare lemongrass, start by peeling the stiff outer leaves away from the stalk to reveal the slightly softer under-layers. Slice the grass in two spots, about half an inch from the root and approximately three inches up, where the whitish color begins to turn green.
The pale lower section of the lemongrass is the meatiest bit. Even so, it must be sliced thin then finely chopped, pounded into a paste with a mortar and pestle, grated with a box grater, or tossed in a food processor so that it isn’t too tough to chew. This is frequently how lemongrass is used in Cambodian cooking, says Yun, especially in the preparation of the spice paste kroeung.
Lemongrass is often finely chopped or pounded in order to break down the tough stalks.
Once minced or pounded, lemongrass can be added to marinades or grilled meats for a touch of sweet citrusy flavor or used to brighten curry pastes and simple sauces . Powdered lemongrass works here, too. “Start with 1 tsp. powder per lemongrass stalk, but be sure to taste as you go to make sure you’re getting that lemony-ginger bite,” advises Payumo.
And despite the fact that lemongrass isn’t traditionally used in recipes of Western origin, adding it to creamy pastas or homemade ice cream is an unexpected delight.
But while only the lower bulb of the lemongrass stem is edible, every portion of the stalk has a role to play in the kitchen. The fibrous upper section of the stalk is full of tons of lemony, gingery goodness. To release the flavorful oils, both Yun and Payumo like to bash or flatten the lemongrass stalk with a cleaver or the side of a large knife. Payumo will also sometimes bend the stalk back and forth a few times to release the oils instead of smashing it.
Fresh lemongrass stalks work best in dishes like soups and slow-roasted meats that simmer for long periods of time. In Filipino cuisine it’s commonly stuffed inside whole pigs or chickens then roasted, says Payumo. Extensive simmering or roasting is also the best use for dry lemongrass, which rehydrates as it cooks. Like bay leaves, remove the lemongrass stalks from the dish before serving.
For Lara Lee's Soto Ayam Betawi , bruised lemongrass stalks simmer with makrut lime leaves in chicken stock.
Photo by Heami Lee, food styling by Judy Haubert, prop styling by Rebecca BartosheskyBruised, oil-rich lemongrass stalks work in the glass, too. They not only make a mean cocktail stirrer, but they can also infuse spirits with almost no effort at all. Go ahead, throw a lemongrass stalk or two in a bottle of vodka and let it sit for a week before drinking. You won’t be sorry.
If you store it right, lemongrass will pretty much last forever. Wrapped loosely in a towel, the stalks will stay fresh and flavorful for a few weeks in the fridge. Otherwise, they’ll do just fine in the freezer, either uncut or pre-prepped. Try portioning minced, pounded, or grated grass into an empty ice tray for no-fuss future use. Dried and powdered lemongrass should be kept in sealed containers and out of the light.
Now go smash, slice, and pound away. You may not be getting to South or Southeast Asia this year, but with your new lemongrass skills, at least your culinary skills will permit you to imagine.
Got lemongrass? Make soup!
Salmon Coconut Soup
Shoshi Parks is a freelance writer (and certified dog trainer!) who covers food, history, and travel.
Source : food
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