Old John’s Diner Updates an Upper West Side Classic

Headliner

Old John’s Diner

What was Old John’s Luncheonette for decades, a neighborhood anchor that attracted marquee names from ABC Studios nearby, has reopened after a pandemic pause. It was first at Broadway and 66th Street, then a block away at 67th Street. And now it has a slight change in its name.

“I liked Luncheonette,” Louis Skibar, the restaurateur behind this venture, said of the old name. “But most people referred to it as a diner.”

Mr. Skibar, an owner of the Toloache restaurants, among others, once worked at the 66th Street location. Now, he has freshened the décor, while keeping the restaurant suitably vintage in appearance with black-and-white tile and booths. His consulting chef, Grayson Schmitz, working with the chefs Raul Navarrete and Victor Rojas-Milán, has refined the menu of diner-style comfort food, using organic chicken for roasting and in a potpie, adding her family recipe for cod crusted with saltine crumbs, and applying a pastrami coating to salmon. There’s also a fried mortadella and egg sandwich, meatloaf, and, from the pastry chef Tanya Ngangan, a five-layer dark chocolate cake. There are cocktails, wine and beer. For the next three weeks, the restaurant will serve only dinner; breakfast and lunch will follow, and baked goods will be sold to take out.

148 West 67th Street, 212-874-2700, iloveoldjohns.com .

Opening

LittleMad

An industrial-style space with exposed wood and touches of copper is the setting for the chef Sol Han’s new venture. Mr. Han, who is Korean American, worked at Le Coucou and Ai Fiori, so there are tastes of France and Italy, in addition to Korean touches. Yellowtail with Asian pear and sesame dressing; ’nduja toast with Manila clams and herbs; black bass with artichokes, mussels and pickled ramp kimchi; and noodles inspired by instant ramen with crisp duck skin, corn and umami foam are on the menu.

110 Madison Avenue (29th Street), littlemadnyc.com .

Junoon

This luxury Indian restaurant, which closed during the pandemic, has reopened in a new location a few steps from the original. It’s a more intimate space with a bar area up front that leads to the candlelit dining room, which is decorated with Indian art. The executive chef Akshay Bhardwaj’s menu now offers à la carte choices in addition to prix fixe and tasting menus. Some highlights are several chaats (there’s a chaat cart), a lotus salad, tandoori octopus, smoked masala ribs, hara paneer (cheese) with greens, Tellicherry duck and, for dessert, kulfi pops.

19 West 24th Street, 212-490-2100, junoonnyc.com .

Studio Bar

An eighth-floor indoor and outdoor summer pop-up for light food is coming to the Whitney Museum of American Art. It’s run by Union Square Events, which also manages the ground-floor Whitney Café at the museum. It is open Fridays through Sundays during regular museum hours. Museum admission is required. (Opens Friday)

whitney.org/visit/dining .

Gansevoort Meatpacking

This hotel has been renovated with new restaurants opening and in planning stages: Coffee & Cocktails, a spacious ground-floor cafe is up and running, and Saishin at the Gansevoort Rooftop, a seasonal pop-up omakase and sushi bar by Kissaki Hospitality Group will open July 20. Next year, LDV Hospitality will install a Mediterranean restaurant at the hotel.

18 Ninth Avenue (13th Street), 212-206-6700, gansevoorthotelgroup.com/gansevoort-meatpacking-ny c.

Wingzilla

This delivery and takeout company from Dan Lerner and Jed Freedlander, both experienced in restaurant management, specializes in twice-baked wings from free-range chickens. Some of the varieties, ranging in heat level, are Jamaican jerk, Shanghai sticky, Korean red chile and lemon-pepper. They operate from DoorDash’s ghost kitchen on the Lower East Side, home to multiple restaurant brands. (Thursday)

196 Stanton Street (Ridge Street), 212-419-1316, wingzilla.us .

Cutlets Sandwich Co.

Richard Zaro of the Zaro bakery family first opened his sandwich venture as delivery only. In December, he added a storefront in the Flatiron district, which he just closed. A flagship location in the garment district is about to open, with another spot in the East Village at 99 Third Avenue (13th Street) to follow next month. (Thursday)

213 West 35th Street, 212-518-6091, cutlets.co .

Regiis Ova Caviar & Champagne Lounge

A new pop-up in Yountville, Calif., named for the caviar company owned by Thomas Keller and Shaoching Bishop has opened for caviar, small plates and more substantial fare, with Champagne and other beverages. It’s steps from Mr. Keller’s Ad Hoc and a few blocks from his flagship, French Laundry.

6480 Washington Street, Yountville, Calif., regiisovalounge.com .

Looking Ahead

Daily Provisions

Union Square Hospitality Group is expanding its collection of cafes, adding one in the West Village next month and another in the Manhattan West development opposite Hudson Yards in August.

29 Bedford Street (Downing Street); Manhattan West.

Chefs on the Move

Tomoyuki Hayashi

A native of Shizuoka Prececture, Japan, southwest of Tokyo, Mr. Hayashi is the new executive chef at Sushi Amane, an eight-seat sushi bar within the restaurant Mifune in Midtown East. He studied in Tokyo and then worked in New York at Matsuri and Sushi Azabu for many years.

Closed

La Mirabelle Restaurant

This traditional French restaurant, on West 86th Street since 1984, first near Riverside Drive and then just off Columbus Avenue, closed last July as a result of the pandemic. The owners now say on Facebook that they are looking for a new location to reopen.

facebook.com/LaMirabelleNY



Source : food

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