Headliner
Sarashina Horii
The history of this restaurant, which specializes in soba noodles, goes back to 1789 when it started serving its noodles to aristocrats and the imperial families in Japan. Using the heart of the buckwheat seeds, its soba is white, making it more delicate and refined. Yoshinori Horii, who runs the company, decided that New York would be its first overseas branch, but the pandemic stalled the opening . In the warmly decorated New York restaurant, the chef Tsuyoshi Hori (the name is a coincidence) and his staff make the soba that they use. They also make more traditional buckwheat soba using some wheat flour, and diners can select which type of soba they prefer. There are more than a dozen soba dishes, cold and hot, many served with tempura and involving seafood, meats like duck, and vegetables. Several sauce options are also available. In addition, the restaurant offers appetizers like deep fried tofu, grilled eel with eggplant, crab cake, fish carpaccio and a soba roll. Salads, tempura dishes, black cod with miso, sukiyaki, and stone-grilled duck with vegetables are some non-soba items. (Opens Wednesday)
45 East 20th Street, 212-674-6714, sarashinahorii.com .
Opening
Cicci di Carne
Dario Cecchini, an eighth-generation Tuscan butcher, has opened a deli in New York as part of Sam Nazarian’s C3 collection of restaurants. (Mr. Cecchini’s family shop, in Panzano in Chianti, has become world famous thanks in part to his showmanship, as seen in his episode of Chef’s Table on Netflix.) Don’t expect slabs of bistecca alla fiorentina here; the shop and restaurant in the Brookfield Place complex at Battery Park City, sells and serves sliced meats like mortadella, salami, ’nduja, finocchiona and roast beef layered in hot and cold sandwiches with cheeses, vegetables and other items. It has been installed on the ground floor next to P.J. Clarke’s on the Hudson, in what is essentially a testing area for different concepts developed and owned by C3. The tryout will last six months, then another C3 brand will move in. A more permanent Cicci di Carne will be going into the C3 food hall at Brookfield’s Manhattan West in September. There are 20 more of them planned around the country.
Brookfield Place, 230 Vesey Street (West Street), 646-933-2920, ciccidicarne.com .
Gabriel’s Bar & Restaurant
It was almost two years to the day since Gabriel Aiello closed his long-running restaurant and bar near Columbus Circle because the building was being demolished. His new location opened early this month, and the Northern Italian menu, somewhat abridged for the opening weeks, hews closely to the original. The restaurant was designed by the Rockwell Group, which gave it a somewhat more formal look, with pale walls, handsome lighting, a marble bar up front and plush semicircular booths instead of the previous big, open trattoria-style room. Mr. Aiello said that the seating had increased by about 30 percent and that there were outdoor tables. What has barely changed is the staff. “I’m proud that almost all of them have come back,” he said.
40 Central Park South (Fifth Avenue), 212-956-4600, gabrielsbarandrest.com .
Temperance Wine Bar
This West Village wine bar owned by Jonathan Rexroat and Devin Rochford has A.J. Ojeda-Pons, formerly at the Lambs Club and Mercado Little Spain, organizing the diverse and far-reaching wine list, and Chris Jaeckle, taking a break from hand rolls, overseeing the snacks and small plates. (Wednesday)
40 Carmine Street (Bedford Street), temperancenyc.com .
Creamline Beer Garden
Creamline has joined forces with Catskill Brewery in Livingston Manor, N.Y., to open an outdoor beer garden, an extension of Creamline’s cafe in Chelsea Market. The brewery’s craft beers will be poured and used in dishes like warm beer cheese and an ice cream float with Nightshine Black Lager. (Thursday)
428 West 16th Street, 646-410-2040, creamlinenyc.com/new-page .
Coco Pazzeria Sutton
Having opened a pizzeria in the former Giorgione space in Hudson Square, Pino Luongo and his partners — Ciro Verde, who is at the pizza oven, and Alessandro Bandini, who is managing — have added a second one uptown. As at the original, there are oysters and other raw bar items, classic and inventive pizzas, salads, mini-calzones and pastas.
1078 First Avenue (59th Street), 646-869-4004, cocopazzeria.com .
The New Woman Behind the Camera Menu
The Eatery, a former lower-level employee cafeteria that is now open to the public (with museum admission from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.), is featuring dishes by female guest chefs. The move is to reflect the exhibit, “The New Woman Behind the Camera.” Among the chefs on board through Sept. 12 are Claudia Fleming, Anita Lo, Emily Luchetti, Emma Bengtsson and Dominique Crenn. Specifics for the week’s menu are posted on Instagram every Wednesday at @metdining .
The Eatery, lower-level cafe, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 Fifth Avenue (82nd Street), 212-535-7710, metmuseum.org/visit/dining .
L’Adresse
Originally called Coffeemania, this import from Moscow opened near Bryant Park in 2017. But the name led to confusion over whether it was just a coffee shop (it’s not) or a full restaurant (it is), so they changed it for the American market. Now, a second edition is opening with a menu of crowd-pleasers like tuna tartare, truffle burger and spaghetti Bolognese, along with Russian borscht and pelmeni dumplings.
1184 Broadway (29th Street), ladressenyc.com .
Chefs on the Move
Massimo Bottura
The chef from Modena, Italy, with a mission to feed the poor and reduce food waste, has announced his latest project, Why Waste? It’s meant to educate consumers on how to reduce waste when preparing meals at home. Mr. Bottura has teamed up with chefs from his restaurants to produce four video lessons with tips for using items like vegetable peelings for a sauce and bread crusts to make a caramel cake. Viewers are encouraged to send their own recipes to #whywaste. The project is supported by S.Pellegrino’s magazine, Fine Dining Lovers.
Paul Liebrandt
During the pandemic, this chef, known for his inventive way with food, has been offering cooking classes and preparing special dinners. For the month of August, he will be in residence at Surf Lodge, in Montauk, N.Y., where he will rely on local provender for three-course dinners on Mondays and Tuesdays, $125 per person, plus beverages, tax and tip.
Surf Lodge, 183 Edgemere Street (Industrial Road), Montauk, N.Y., 631-250-8439, thesurflodge.com .
Gerardo Gonzalez
This chef, who attracted attention at Nick Morgenstern’s El Rey Coffee Bar & Luncheonette and is now the chef at Palm Heights on Grand Cayman, is popping up to cook dinners at Niche Niche in SoHo. There was a pair of them this week, and two more, featuring Mexican and Caribbean food, on Sunday and Monday, $65 per person.
Niche Niche, 43 MacDougal Street (King Street), no phone, nichenichenyc.com .
Looking Ahead
Unnamed Daniel Boulud Project
Having opened Le Pavillon at One Vanderbilt, an office tower in Manhattan, Daniel Boulud has now signed onto a restaurant project in California, as yet unnamed and opening date undetermined. It will be on the ground floor, with seating inside and out, in a new 300,000-square-foot glass condominium building being constructed in Beverly Hills. It will be his first foray into Los Angeles.
9200 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, Calif.
Closing
Racines NY
After seven years as a locus of interesting wines and food, this spinoff of a Parisian restaurant group will say goodbye after service on July 30. The present executive chef, Diego Moya, has been on parental leave and feels he now must step away permanently. He is returning to the kitchen briefly from next week until the closing. The owners, David Lille and Pascaline Lepeltier, and the manager Jared David, do not plan to replace Mr. Moya — the restaurant has had several executive chefs over the years — but will develop a new concept and reopen by the end of the year.
94 Chambers Street (Church Street), 212-227-3400, racinesny.com .
Source : food
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